Friday, 18 August 2017

Big Horn Sheep, Mountain Goats, and Baby Black Bear - Oh My!


Today was a day about learning to be patient, to take my time and to perfect my turning around in tight spaces with the Gypsy wagon.

Departing Redsteaks Campground the road descends from the plateau about 2 kms into Radium Hot Springs. No sooner had I started my descent than I stumbled upon a herd of Big Horn Sheep with actual curved horns, this time. Well, down went the windows and out came the camera. I was in all my glory!  Since this is a lightly traveled road I could snap away from the drivers seat to my hearts content.

After getting my fill I travelled down to the Visitors Centre parking lot to get a magnet for the fridge before I departed.  Shock of the day - all those pictures I thought I took - I didn't. They were NOT on my camera.  I turned the Gypsy Wagon around and went right back up the hill, past the herd, pulled a U-turn to face down the hill and proceeded to get those pictures all over again. Thankfully, the sheep were not in a rush and seemed to be in the very same spot as before. Sigh.

Time for gas.  Why didn't I fill up when I was in town yesterday without the trailer?  Good question! This will become a re-occurring theme.  I had a memorable experience pulling forward through the pumps as a massive 5th wheel came towards me in the other lane.  Of course, both of us were coming out of a turn just to add fun to the occasion.  We managed not to get hung up on each other - barely.

I had downloaded the Kootenay National Park app that is supposed to automatically start when you get to the park entrance.  Well, it would not go automatically because I had the location services off which I found out later.  I also found out later that this section of highway has no cell service. Turning on the location services part way did not help me. I did manage to listen to a few tracks manually though which was nice.

National Park points of interest signage.  I had already learned that they were small now I will add 'almost non-existent and located too close to the turns off to be of value' when travelling at 90 km/hr towing a trailer downhill.

I missed Olive Lake altogether but did manage to slither into the Kootenay Valley Viewpoint. This is worth stopping for.  While the Visitor Centre guide assured me that the pull-outs along this route were trailer friendly I soon began to doubt this advice as some stops were bleak at best. The problem is you typically cannot see beyond the turn off to judge the suitability.  Let's just say Mr. Thirsty and the Gypsy Wagon we not always a match.

The Paint Pots is not a trailer friendly stop but once committed you are committed!  I did manage to park and thankfully the people beside me were still in their vehicle when I returned.  They kindly backed up to allow me room to pull out without shearing off their front bumper. Because the parks are busy, someone parked, in a no parking area, along the edge in front of me taking away any room for me to pull forward before turning.

After setting up at the campground in Lake Louise it was off to Moraine Lake for a short hike.  Then take-out pizza and I was in for the night.







Look George, more looky-loo's. 











Today I saw three out of four. Not too bad!

Kootenay Valley Viewpoint, Highway 93 heading towards Lake Louise from Radium Hot Springs.
Here I am in a completely deserted campground looking for a way to turn around so that I can go back down the highway to get to a trail head entrance that I missed. I think this campground was closed due to the recent fires and was just newly opened; however, there was no one here. Not one camper. Really weird. After going around a camping loop I did get pointed in the right direction again. 


Mountain goats at 90 km/hr. 

It is difficult to see; however, this entire valley was victim to the recent forest fires. 

View from the bridge over the Vermillion River on the walk to the Paint Pots. 













Mountains towering above at every turn. Getting closer to Castle Junction were Highway 93 meets Highway 1. 


After getting settled into the campground in Lake Louise, I headed up the road to Moraine Lake. How nice to see a happy little Black Bear feeding on the side of the road. With a large line of cars behind me this was the best I could do. Although busy, the parks were no more busy than they were when I was here exactly one year ago.  


It is impossible not to take pictures every 3 steps. The following are various points of view of Moraine Lake as I walked to the end and back which is a very easy 15 minute walk each way.  Most people do not venture more than 50 metres down the path. 















The snow pack high up across the lake has a huge waterfall coming off the right-hand side. Difficult to see here.

With few people to witness my antics near the far end of the lake this is a perfect place to practice the self-timer special. 









The end of the line. This is the end of Moraine Lake where the river from the glacier feeds the lake.

Looking back towards the trail head, the brown patch in the centre.

An easy walk back to the car.

Many tourists clambering over the rocks. It you squint just right you will see some at the very top to the left of the picture.








When parking at Moriane Lake you will likely have to ditch it on the side of the road and walk but that is what Mr. Thirsty is made for.  

I ordered take out pizza from the Timberwolf restaurant in the Lake Louise Inn. They have a fabulous lobby to wait in. 



Comfy couches and ice water for the taking. Why not?!


Pizza, one of my better ideas today.

Settling in for the night in Lake Louise ready to hit the Icefields Parkway tomorrow on my way to Jasper. 

Thursday, 17 August 2017

Radium Hot Springs: Sinclair Canyon, Juniper Trail to the Springs

Mama Big Horn Sheep with young.
Juniper Trail, Sinclair Canyon, Kootenay National Park. 


The guides at the Radium Hot Springs Visitor's Centre were very helpful in planning out the next two days.  Tomorrow I will relocate to Lake Louise via Highway 93 that runs through Kootenay National Park to Castle Junction (the mid-point between Banff and Lake Louise along Highway 1).  There are many interesting places to stop along Highway 93; however, I was not sure if the pull-outs and parking lots would accommodate the Gypsy Wagon.  Maybe I should drive this 93 km stretch today with just the truck to do all of my hopping out?

No need they said, the parking lots are big. Perfect. That means I can save all of that for tomorrow and just drive Highway 93 one way. Today was for hiking to Sinclair Falls and then on to the Radium Hot Springs pools.

From the Redstreak Campground there is a 1.0 km trail down to the Sinclair Falls pull out along Highway 93. This offers a short sidewalk along the highway that pedestrians can stroll along to peer over the walls into the deep waterfall/canyon.

From here the Juniper trail descends through a short series of switch-backs to the edge of the roaring river downstream from Sinclair Canyon. This means only one thing - what goes down much come up. To get to the hot spring one must channel their inner mountain goat and hike up and up and up. The trail is well packed soil that is easy to navigate; however, it is like climbing two Pender Hills in a row.  Not impossible at all - just a little sweaty.

The underbrush is light so I didn't have to worry about surprising any creatures. That said it must be grasshopper season because I was flushing them out every 20 paces. I may have let out an inelegant squeak now and then. That will be my secret.

Juniper trail ascends much higher than the campground which is on the opposite side of Sinclair Canyon. The views looking back over the valley and town are nice; however, the best view of the canyon from above is as you descend from the campground and again at the highway level.  Juniper trail is lovely exercise and pretty at the river bottom but will disappoint if the expectation is to gain a better view of Sinclair Canyon itself.

My hike today was a loop trail with the hot springs near the end with only a very minimal climb followed by a gently rolling 2.0 km stroll back to the campground.  I had my swim suit, towel, lunch and magazine along. Too bad I didn't bring a fresh set of clothing or a comb!  Getting back into smelly clothing after the pool was a distinct downer.

At the hot springs I was purchasing a pool pass from one clerk when the other stated, "Aren't you a Loenen?" Pardon!?  Turns out this was the mother of a former online school student.  I had met her a few times previously at home school conventions. It took my mind a few seconds to put the pieces together when meeting her out of context.  Her son was on-duty today as a life guard and stopped by the edge of the pool to say hello. It's a small world!

After putting my gross hiking clothes back on I strolled back to the camp to get cleaned up . . . again.

The afternoon was spent in lazy splendour reading, editing photos and cooking up a nice steak that I acquired from the well-stocked grocery store located next to the visitors centre.

I must hurry - the park interpretive program starts at 7 pm this evening.  And, feeling optimistic, I purchased a day pass for the hot springs pools.  I could go back. They are open until 11 pm.  I know, I never make it much past 9 pm.  Who knows, today might be the day.

Ha, ha.  So I get the dishes started and then come back to upload photos and poof it is 7:10 pm.  I dash out in my trusty old blue Crocs (flimsy plastic foot wear) only to find the amphitheatre is dark and abandoned.  Ah, the group is up on the slopes of the path that I hiked last night. Hiking. .. in crocs.... uphill.  Oh well, I learned lots of lovely things about how to survive in the bush. Bottom line - I would not survive.

Camp stores are source of wonder. They have everything. 



Hmm, we are going to eat well tonight. Steak and potatoes. 

I thought a statue of a Big Horn Sheep is better than no Big Horn Sheep.


Up the slope behind the Visitor's Centre parking lot is a short paved stroll with huge statues depicting the 14 Stations of the Cross. Regardless of ones faith or personal beliefs this was a moving way to start the day in the stillness of the morning. My question - why do the Stations of the Cross end without a resurrection 'station'?







I took my groceries and my maps back to the campsite and set out.  Here is the look out from the campground side of Highway 93 looking down into Sinclair Canyon. You can see the pedestrian sidewalk below.  Down we go!



Still at the first lookout, you can peer across and see where you are going to be in about an hour.

Here is the view from highway level. The picture provides no idea as to the roar of the water and the height of the falls in this canyon. 



Tomorrow the Gypsy Wagon will go through this narrow point. Too bad I can't stop to take a picture like I did on the Avenue of the Giants in California.  Since this is a main highway, I shall show some restraint. 

In the belly of the falls. 







Over the bridge to the other side and up we go!

Since the views at the top we hazy and uninspiring, my next shots are near the end of the trail in a restoration area.  I am not sure if the fire was a prescribed burn or a natural event some years ago. 

My 35x zoom brings this 'sentry' sheep up close. 

I nearly missed seeing this foraging group on the hillside. At first, I only saw two.  Standing to watch and wait slowly more appeared. 




A very Canadian Moment at the Radium Hot Springs pool. 

Lunch time. Lentils and a banana with yummy 'flavour spots' - at least that's what I used to tell the boys. They don't buy that anymore. 


The 2.3 km trail from the hot springs back to the camp has a short steep bit and then levels off nicely for the remainder.

The stillness of this place was disrupted by the clanging sounds of the machinery making upgrades to the concrete and curbing at the hot springs. Maybe come back with snowshoes in the winter?


 I caught up to the Interpretive program about 10 minutes late. No harm done.  The story of the tiny mouse seeking shelter in the cone of the Douglas Fir never gets old. 



A squirrel snack food stash.  Seeds for everyone. 




Juniper trees make good wood for bows and have the berries used in gin.  Who knew?



Checking out the different kinds of lichen. Don't eat the bright green ones.

We ended our time together at the top of the path looking west over Mt. Farnham and the Purcell Mountains.
No more hot springs for me tonight - its time to get cozy in the Gypsy Wagon and get ready for another day.



Wednesday, 16 August 2017

Kelowna to Kootenay National Park at Radium Hot Springs

The boys did not want to come along so I am adventuring in the mountain parks of western Canada solo.  I think this will work out well for all of us.

First stop, Tim Horton's in Winfield. Then, it was very smooth and easy driving to Revelstoke.  I meet up with my former neighbour who suggested a lovely little Taco restaurant in the downtown core. It was delicious and rather fun to actually stop and soak up the ambiance a little bit. Revelstoke is generally a gas and restroom stop.  It is worth slowing down and checking it out.

The drive to Golden was extremely smokey especially on the east side of the Roger's Pass.  Here there were active forest fires smouldering shockingly close to the highway.  Helicopters were dipping their buckets in the river beside the highway as we drove on by.

Turning south at Golden down highway 95 was a real treat. This meandering two-lane highway was new to me.  It is somewhat like driving between Okanagan Falls and Oliver over and over again.

I was too busy checking out the RV's parked at the Visitor's Centre that I missed the turn off for Redstreak  Campground. It took me about 3-4 kilometres to realize, hmmm, I think I am on my way to Invermere. Then, it was another 4 kilometres before I could see a good place to turn around in time to slow down and exit. Alex and Dominic would have come in handy here so that they could check the GSP to see what kinds of roads were up ahead. . . .. yes, yes, I know, I would not have missed the turn had the GPS on the phone been turned on.  In my defence, the national park campground sign was tiny. As in miniature. And, it was situated about 10 feet before the actual turn. Now, I know :).

After getting set up I walked two of the trails located right around the park. No Big Horned Sheep yet - maybe tomorrow.

At 8 pm there was a park interpreter program on the White Barked Pine.  I think I will fall asleep to the chant - 'but, the White Barked Pines fought back!'

This camping can be a busy business!

The Gypsy Wagon is ready to roll. 

Approaching Vernon. Despite the smoke-filled skies, home is pretty nice, too.

Hundreds of Cadets on parade to mark the end of their summer training. This brings back memories as I taught basic training for two summers in the Canadian Forces Communication Reserves on this very parade square.

Oh those pesky fender screws. I caught this one just before it made its escape.

This business started out as a food truck.

Delicious Crispy Fish taco lunch.

Hamming it up with Hrvojka and her daughter by the bears in downtown Revelstoke. 




The mountains are still majestic, just a little muted with all of the smoke

Oh, what's a summer road trip in British Columbia without a few construction zones?!

These tunnels were under construction last year, too!?

So, that fire is kinda right beside the road. Yikes.

Fire on the right, bucketing helicopters on the left.

This is Highway 95 heading south from Golden towards Radium Hot Springs. Still smokey here, too from the fires in Banff National Park. Hopefully, Highway 93 will be open when I need it. 

Redstreak Campground in Kootenay National Park. 




Redstreak Restoration trail.  They said there could be Big Horn Sheep. No sheep. . .   




Redstreak Loop to the look out. 

Up we go.





There is something a little bit ironic about reading "Meeting God in the Wilderness' while in a National Park, eh?!

I enjoyed the lively audience participation interpretive program in the amphitheatre. We have some short 'old' spruce crowding out the White Barked Pine and a pesky Mountain Pine Beetle on the right.